The one with the red glow has a higher draw weight. One brand when held in sun light has a yellow glow inside the tube, while another has a red glow. When choosing your pipe, one thing I have noticed is that there is a difference between brands. It has a leather hinge between the two cut pieces of the board so I can just hinge it closed with the hot limb in it and it will get an even progression from thickest near the handle to thinest by the tip. For a form I use a piece of 2 x 8 wood with a curved cut in it shaped like the side view of the desired limb. then just cut the knocks in the end and do some carefull final heating and bending so everything is straight.
Then heat one limb at a time with the torch being carefull not to scorch it. I use about 8" of handle, 4" for your hand and 4 inches above center so the arrow can be exactly centered. Mark out a section for the handle and the limbs. To start making a PVC bow all you need is the tube, nylon string (3 pices of mason line twisted together works), a heat source like a weed burning propane torch, and some kind of mold or form to shape the limbs. The other pictures are of a compound bow I made earlier this year, and some PVC recurves (sold on ebay). I gave that to a good friend for his birthday.
#BOW AND ARROW SUDOKU FULL#
2 1/2 days of work with hand tools, 68# (I was not full grown, so it had a short draw).
I was in middleschool or maybe 9th grade. The last cedar one I finnished was very good looking. The wood one is a cedar longbow that is not finnished. I attatched pictures of a few bows I have made. Maple could maybe be good, but in my experience all those materials are completely outclassed by a well chosen cedar limb. It's just that in my 1 acre micro world, the choices of bow materials in the formative years of my archery research were douglas fir, alder, hucleberry, maybe hemlock, and maple etc. I draw to a certain spot in the air by my ear and use a 2 finger draw, that's weird. Cedar is not so sacred to me now as it was for years. I have gained a lot of skills and knoledge since then. Notice that the comment you replied to is over 3.5 years old. I would also refer you to the youtube channel: BackyardBowyer. I'm not sure what you want the bow for but if you just want a good bow I would reccommend more modern techniques (I can help with that too if you want). I now use PVC mainly and am experimenting with a laminate paper bow (not sure if this has been done before).
if you do do this maksure that one feather is perpendicular to the nock at the end of the arrow and then when you nock the arrow onto the string have this fletching facing towards you.īEFORE you start though you should also consider other materials. Right onto the bow, it looks allright actually, but you need fletching on the arrows, you can buy them on the internet for about £3 and that will give you about 12 feathers, 4 arrows worth. you should not be drawing using your arm muscles, you should be using your back muscles mainly.Īlso your elbow on your drawing arm is too high it should be brought down a touch, not lots, just a bit.Īnd one last thing, you are bending backwards at the hips, not good! Firstly a bit of constructive criticism: your posture is all wrong, your bow hand should not be bent at the wrist like that one is 'cause it will tilt the bow when you loose and send your arrow off not where you want it, also your shoulder on you bow arm is too high, it should be brought down to it is level with you arm so that you hand, arm, shoulders and elbow of your drawing arm are in a strait line, it will feel weird at first but it helps your accuracy and makes you use the right muscles to draw the bow.
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